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Only Fools and Flatlanders

10/5/2012

 
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I took this photo on the spine of the trail leading to Myrtle Point. This shot looks south toward Clingman's Dome. The photo at the bottom was taken looking north on the other side of LeConte at the same time. They illustrate the difficulty of predicting weather and quality of sunrises and sunsets on LeConte.
Good afternoon to everyone.  Things are hopping on the mountain as the Smokies swell with October visitors.  I don't blame them; the mountains are wonderful.  I worked 17 hours yesterday, and today looks to be every bit as busy as we welcome even more guests and day hikers.

Today I'm writing about the difficulty of predicting the weather on Mt. LeConte.  We were talking about the forecast the other day when Walt reminded me of an old saying I hadn't heard in a long time.  "Only fools and flatlanders try to predict the weather in the mountains."  I'm about to give you the weather report, and I'm no flatlander (which puts me squarely in the fool camp I guess).

Thursday saw a high of 61 and low of 36.  It was beautiful almost all day.  So far Friday reminds me of its predecessor.  It's been another pretty day at LeConte Lodge.  The weekend forecast I heard this morning called for increased chance of precipitation moving through Saturday and into Sunday plus significantly lower temperatures.  For those of you hiking up, I expect we'll be below freezing for overnight lows at least two nights in the very near future.  All of this means that the crew will be paying particular attention to the LeConte Guess the First Snow Contest.

In general, we receive much more precipitation (rain and snow) than the other folks in the Tennessee Valley.  Until you've lived up here you just can't imagine how fast the clouds move over the mountain.  It's something to behold.  We're often living in the cloud as folks in the valley are enjoying sunny skies.  If they look up at the summit of LeConte from below, we're often donning a sombrero of clouds.

As a crew member you're often asked how sunset or sunrise should look; is it worth hiking out to see?  The truth is most days we can only guess as there's a fine line between being clouded in and experiencing a sunset you'll remember for a lifetime.  Sunset can even be a dramatically different experience in the short 0.2 miles from the lodge to Cliff Tops.  Just a few days ago, the cloud layers parted just enough at sunset to allow the colors to bounce between the layers of clouds and paint the summit pink.  It looked like a sunset layer cake.

So, if a crew member is hesitant to predict the prospects for a sunset or sunrise, they're just being honest.  It can change in a hurry.  Here's hoping you get a memorable one for your next trip up LeConte.  Feel free to write about your favorite LeConte sunrise or sunset in the comments section.  Happy trails.
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Like the above photo, this shot was taken on the spine of the trail leading to Myrtle Point, this time looking to the north (on the Pigeon Forge side of LeConte). Keep in mind that both of today's photos were taken from the same spot in the trail within 30 seconds of each other with dramatically different views.
LC
10/5/2012 08:23:29 am

What is the name of that spot on Alum Cave trail where you walk along a rock face on the side of the mountain and the views go on for miles?

Debi link
10/5/2012 08:46:54 am

Sorry, I can't write about a Leconte sunset yet. When I was there Aug. 4th we recieved 3.64 inches of rain. The most recorded in 2012. And lucky me I was there. Thats ok, I sure had fun playing in the Leconte falls steps. Hopefully I will get one next July.

Jeanie
10/5/2012 09:23:05 am

Our first Sunset on LeConte was in Sept 1998. It was SPECTACULAR! We had several people sitting with us on Cliff Top saying that was the prettiest sunset they had seen in several years of coming at that time of year. I must have taken 50 pictures. Since then we have seen many very pretty sunsets, but I will always remember that first one! We've also been rained out, but it's all good when you are on the mountain. Rain or Shine! Take care Nathan and tell the Crew hello from the Lawleys!

doug
10/5/2012 10:37:09 am

During my first stay at the Lodge in 2004 I was resting in a chair at my cabin beneath beautiful bright blue sky and dozed off. When I woke up fog had rolled in over the ridge above completely enveloping the lodge area and giving a most surrealistic atmosphere and it startled me at first, but I realized where I was and I had experienced sudden weather changes many times in the Park before. Actually, I loved the scene. During subsequent visits similar sudden changes occured many times. That's just the way it is up there. I love it ! For every five sunsets I've seen from Cliff Tops, I've witnessed perhaps one at Myrtle Point, but each has been spectacular to behold. I fell asleep lying on the rocks at Myrtle one afternoon; If a hungry bear had been around, well, I guess he would have had a big meal ! Coming over to the Park next week to enjoy the colors and take five or six day hikes I've not been on in a while. Always get excited with the prospect of getting there ! Have a good evening at the lodge; Got to go outside now and listen for the dinner bell !! G'day.

Pearl link
10/5/2012 02:27:48 pm

We were there a few weeks ago and while we didn't get a sunset we went up to clifftops just in case. When we got up there it was completely fogged in. As we stood there and watched to our amazement the fog lifted and we had a view of the mountains below us. We could see the lights in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. A few minutes later it was completely fogged in again. It wasn't the sunset I was hoping for but it was still so beautiful!
We did have a gorgeous sunset and sunrise in Sept 2006 our first stay at the lodge. One of the most beautiful scenes I have ever seen and will never forget!!

Ben
10/5/2012 11:08:06 pm

This isn't a sunset story. Reading Doug's description of the ever changing weather brought to mind a memorable hike that occured 4 or 5 years ago. It was early morning in late October and was snowing when I parked my car at Cosby. As I climbed the trail to Low Gap, the snow flakes tingling my face, a euphoric feeling consumed me. When I reached the ridge along the AT, there was an accumulation of 4 or 5 inches. I made my way to White Rock as the snow backed off to flurries. There was no view when I arrived, but the sky was getting lighter. I decided to wait it out. I hung out in the octagonal building for about an hour, changing into a dry shirt and having a snack. The clouds began to break and I was treated to a spectacular view. There was a snow line at around 3,000 feet. Below that, there was beautiful color from the changing leaves. I shot a ton of pictures before I started back. I saw my first human as I got back to the AT. He had a small thermometer hanging off his pack strap. I inquired and was informed it was 24. After diving back down the Low Gap trail, I was under a blanket of yellows and reds backlit by the afternoon sunshine. There wasn't a hint of snow. I think I was grinning for about a week after that one.

PS - The avg snowfall in Augusta is 1 inch, which sometimes means 3 winters with nothing and 4 inches on the 4th winter. I'm sure snow emotes a much different feeling from someone like Debi. Happy trails everyone.

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 02:16:33 am

Great story.

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 02:18:39 am

Do you have the photos posted anywhere we could view them?

Ben
10/6/2012 03:55:57 am

I'm sorry Tony. They were shot with my mid 70s Mamiya screw mount. Digitizing many of my better photos is on my list. You know that list we all have. It just hasn't happened yet. Thanks for the compliment (Debi and Doug as well).

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 04:00:00 am

My experience is that no picture can really compare to what you see with your own two eyes.

Debi link
10/6/2012 12:53:10 am

Ben, you had such a wonderful story and so fine detailed, until you got to the snow part. I'm thinking to myself. Snow, yuck! This guy must be from a southern state. Snow is great if you don't have to go anywhere. Which I always do and so beautiful gleaming and hanging off the pine trees with the sun coming on it and its minus something. Yes, I have been up on Leconte before and woke up one morn to flurries and 16 and Florida people thing its just great as I'm thinking its warmer at home. Thanks Ben for thinking of me. Lol!!!

Brian N bama
10/6/2012 02:24:39 am

Sorry Debi but I am hoping for some snow fall this Nov when we come up. My son and I came up Alum last Nov. It started snowing as we got to the trail head and continued to do so the whole way up. We arrived to temps around 10-12 and the wind blowing about 20mph. We were scheduled to stay in the shelter. As we were thawing out in the office, they had a cancellation. I looked at my son and we both grinned from ear to ear. I pulled out my wallet and paid for the cabin. That was our first stay at the Lodge.

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 03:33:02 am

Brian N bama, we hiked the Boulevard yesterday, loved that trail. It took us 4 hours to get to Cliff Tops. One of my favorite trails now.

doug
10/6/2012 02:18:31 am

A great story Ben ! It depicted how the weather can truly change rapidly in the Smokies and showed how every sort of climatic condition can be enjoyed ! I understand Debi's feelings toward snow and I think that I, too, might share such feelings if I lived in the northern states. When snowflakes are surrounding me I become quite euphoric and love the experiences. Tent camping at Elkmont one winter {when that place was open during the season} I woke up one morning with around 6 - 8 inches of fresh snow engulfing my tent; the scene was absolutely beautiful ! When I'm at the lodge I often remain around my cabin if it's fogged in or raining, but in the future I believe I'll go on up to Cliff Tops and see what develops like Pearl described. That's what makes being up there worthwhile.

Marilyn
10/6/2012 02:55:49 am

I remember in 1996 my daughter had crewed at LeConte that season. At the end of the season she wanted to come down Boulevard so she could mark off all the trails to LeConte. When she started on the trail it was clear and pleasant but the further she walked it began snowing and continued snowing. I headed up to pick her up at Newfound Gap...it started snowing half way there and was coming down pretty heavily the closer I got to the gap and so awesome to see the snow on the trees. When I arrived there was no sign of my daughter and only one car in the parking lot. As I got out to head to the bathroom I met a couple and asked if they'd seen any young girl on the trail. They replied there was a girl in the bathroom who had a heavy backpack and looked to be pretty cold. It was my daughter and she was indeed wet and cold and had dropped one of her gloves on the way down that was soaked. We were both glad to see each other! The road was closed to the Gap 15 minutes after we got to Gatlinburg. She said it was a long haul from the top, cold, wet and miserable at times but still one of the most exhilarating and beautiful hikes she had ever experienced and a good way to end her '96 crew job! We capped it off with a big steak at the Peddler. How I envied her that hiking experience!

Linda M
10/6/2012 02:56:00 am

We hiked up in mid May 2010. We were clouded in on our hike up and after we got to the lodge, checked in (about 4:30pm) and were sitting in the dining hall having a cup of hot chocolate, we looked out the doors and it was snowing! It didn't last long but it was my first trip and makes a great story to tell about what to expect (or not) from the weather on the mountain. Looking forward to June 2013 trip with kids and grandkids (18 & 22). It will be their first hike up to LeConte and I am ready to show it off to them!

JDS link
10/6/2012 03:45:37 am

That picture looking towards Clingman's Dome makes me yearn to come up there and stay a whole week just to see the view. We were hemmed in by clouds in all directions when we visited last fall, so we couldn't see any vistas from Myrtle Point. That did NOT detract from the beauty of the LeConte, however - it was still a dream come true!

Brian N bama
10/6/2012 04:56:33 am

Tony, I think it may be one of my favorites as well. I know if I ever get to hike it in the clear it will be my favorite. see if you can open this https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.506512332692450.123351.100000010620006&type=3#!/photo.php?fbid=506512436025773&set=a.506512332692450.123351.100000010620006&type=3&theater

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 05:49:36 am

Says "don't have permission to view". Do you have the pics available to public? It was a perfect day yesterday. One of my favorite parts was when you could see the rock slide from the trail. When I seen it I realized what it was and how far and up we had to go to get there. We sat there for a bit enjoying the view.

Brian N bama
10/6/2012 06:27:55 am

Try it now.

Tony Ga
10/6/2012 06:59:00 am

Got them....amazing, thanks for sharing.


Comments are closed.
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