 I am larger, better than I thought, I did not know I held so much goodness. Whitman Morning y'all, It's a gloomy morning atop Mt. LeConte. The high yesterday reached 39 degrees. The low temperature was 22 degrees. It was 38 degrees and cloudy at 7am observation. The mountain received .08 inches of liquid precipitation and there is now only patchy snow remaining up top. The trails are sure to be a mess today with a lot of melt and slick glace. Be careful.  Top photo: Clingman's Dome at sunset. Above: Fox tracks. I haven't seen anyone up top since Sunday afternoon. It is a unique experience, as time fades in a different way when people are not around. I can not explain it. Despite the fact that the vast majority of folks who come up here are perfect strangers to me, there is still a vibe, something atmospheric that differs when nobody else is up here. I get lost in my head a bit easier. A chapter before lunchtime turns into an afternoon immersion interrupted only be the growling of my stomach and the realization that I am now half done with my new book. A short walk out to sunset turned into an hour wandering in the woods following fox tracks, wondering just where these wild animals sleep and how they survive the endless Smoky Mountain winter. I wonder if this is what hibernation feels like, an overpowering slowness so natural that it melts into happiness.
One thing I like about winter is when there's just the right amount of snow on the ground to reveal particular features of the terrain of the mountains; for me, I can often see trails, roads, ridges, and other things that are always there, but they seem to come out better with a little bit of snow covering everything. I have several "raised relief" plastic topographic maps (somewhat fragile things) in addition to all my other topo maps and they show the terrain in quite different manner, pleasing to examine and compare to the trails I frequently hike. Nice photo of Clingman's Dome today.
Jemma
1/10/2014 05:51:31 am
In the UK, they use aerial photographs taken just after a new snow to discover Roman forts and other archeological sites!
Brutus
1/10/2014 08:00:44 am
Are you saying there is a Roman fort on Mt LeConte?
Jan
1/10/2014 02:25:37 am
Great photos and as usual, great insight into your life at LeConte. Love, love, love reading your descriptions of your days. Nothing like JP journals :)
gem state
1/10/2014 02:56:09 am
I learned this week that the manner in which canids walk in the snow is called 'direct register'; front foot in the snow, back foot following in the front foot's print. Conserves energy to only have to break a trail every other step. Ecological adaptation never fails to blow my mind!!
The Real JP
1/15/2014 01:21:50 am
You're a gem.
Greg
1/10/2014 03:06:40 am
I was on the mountain looking for you yesterday--I had a Snicker Bar for you. I came up Styx straight to Myrtle Point--the ice climb was terrific! This is the third time I missed you this season. I have my suspicions about who you are... but could be wrong. So you did it with ice climbing tools? When I went up Styx on New Year's with a friend we skirted around the ice. I didn't bring my crampons, and microspikes wouldn't have done the trick. Too bad giant icicles don't make good handholds--they have an unfortunate tendency to break off in your hand!
Greg
1/13/2014 03:58:31 am
Yes, you know who this is--of course. The day I climbed was beautiful--no wind, so it was not cold. The ice was very strong, with good crampons and ice axe the feeling was much much more secure in the ice. I hope you are having a great New Year.
tomk in SC
1/10/2014 03:49:50 am
Styx branch to Myrtle Point?
chris d
1/10/2014 05:02:53 am
Styx branch to Myrtle point is generally referred to as Huggins Hell. Greenbriar to AT generally referred to as Porters creek man way. These are the ones I've done that you'd mentioned. If your use to off trailing it they are not that bad. The worst thing about these 2 this time of the year is the water crossings. The best unofficial trail to LeConte in my opinion is up Roaring Fork creek. The creek is waterfall after waterfall. Dome falls is up towards the top of this is one.
Greg
1/13/2014 04:06:38 am
LeConte has many many excellent off-trail routes. Styx has 6 wonderful variations at least. In the ice last week I made a round-trip from Alum Cave Parking in 5 hours 5 min. That was going just past Arch Rock and turning up Styx straight to Myrtle Point. I took a lot of pictures all day (that made the trip slower) but things were so nice you could see Ramsey Cascades totally frozen and shining from Myrtle Point. I returned by the Lodge (looking for the Caretaker) and then down Alum Cave Trail. Of course, Trout Branch is SUPER as well with three excellent variations. Roaring Fork is a blast, especially the three main divisions of it. Then when you move to the east face the trips are WONDERFUL big days. I am sure you have talked to Jenny about this side of LeConte--but, Cannon and Lowes give a huge amount of greatness to a trip.
Debi
1/10/2014 06:31:28 am
We may not have a lot of people around in the winter, but there is always a endless amount of things to do. Just trying to accomplish all of them is a major task.
Donna
1/10/2014 10:13:16 am
JP you should write a book about your experiences during the winter at LeConte. You have such a special way of describing it. Then again, maybe we do not want everyone to know how special it is. Comments are closed.
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