High On LeConte
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the smell of your hair, i know it's still there.

1/24/2014

 
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Allons! whoever you are come travel with me! Traveling with me you find what never tires. Whitman
Morning y'all,

It is a cold, cold morning up top. The high yesterday reached a mere six degrees. The low got down to negative 16 degrees. It was negative 10 degrees and cloudy at 7am observation. The mountain received no new snow and the total up top is down to about 6 inches. The snow has gotten just packed down enough for it to be slick. It is exhausting work to get up the trails, so please take that into account when planning your hike. It took me about 25% longer to get up Alum than it usually does due to the tricky snow and ice conditions. Be prepared for an intense day if you plan to hike up.
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I had a wonderful, perspective shifting hike yesterday. My buddy Aaron and I decided to go big and started down Bullhead at around 9:30 am. The bitter cold held off once we got further into the trees, it seemed as though they were respecting our ambition and shielding us from the harshest of the elements. The snow was soft, we were skating down the mountain on the more gentle sections. After a quick lunch in town, we headed up to get a view of my mountain home from Chimney Tops. There had hardly been anyone on the trail (besides a few intrepid sledders!) and we hiked through fresh snow for the final mile of our ascent. The last few handholds were covered in snow, we blew it aside and enjoyed the fantastic view from our well earned perch. After some graceful buttsliding and a tricky descent in the snow, we glided down the trail. We paused to listen to the trees creaking in the deep freeze and building winds. Finally, we headed up to Alum. The golden light slanting through the trees was beyond words. It buoyed us as our legs were starting to drag. The Almond Snickers helped, too. We caught sunset from above the double stairs and made our way to the lodge through the beginnings of the night, fu-Inlé. All day I was dazed by how fortunate it was to have these marvelous woods set aside, a place to feel yourself in the splendor of the great other. So beautiful, so necessary. Everything pales in comparison to this level of awe.
Kim
1/24/2014 12:59:08 am

You are such a good writer. I tune in as much to read your lilting and image-filled prose as much as I do for the magnificent photos.

There
1/24/2014 01:26:36 am

Amen

bb
1/24/2014 01:48:55 am

Thanks JP for the picture and sharing- it's ALMOST like being there- your discription makes me smile
heaven on earth

marty mcfly
1/24/2014 03:00:50 am

No such thing as heaven on earth. Earth can't come close in comparison.

Joy
1/24/2014 01:57:40 am

Wow! Sounds so amazing ESP to those of us down below looking up at the mtn.Glad you guys had such a blessed day!

ElConquistador
1/24/2014 02:04:07 am

Awesome JP!! Sounds like you had a fantastic day! Every day on the way home from work, I look up on the mountain and wonder how it's going for you. Thanks for the pics and prose daily!

Jan
1/24/2014 02:21:12 am

Love this description of your awesome day!! Thanks again for sharing ...... envious :-)!

Jenny B. link
1/24/2014 02:31:14 am

Good grief! So you had a descent of 3600' and then a climb of 1300' plus a separate climb of 2800', in snowy and icy conditions. I assume you hitchhiked from Rainbow Falls trailhead into town and back up to Chimneys trailhead, and from there to Alum trailhead. Insane!

GNU
1/24/2014 02:59:41 am

Well, you do know that he is superhuman, right?

norman
1/24/2014 03:05:34 am

HE MUST BE!

JanE
1/24/2014 08:15:09 am

He's young, he hikes this stuff all year... why not? Ahh... to be young and the body not know limits again. And of course the insane love for what you do has to be there too. Look at what the athletes put themselves through. Ah well.... I just wish I could do that. But I will settle for the gorgeous photos and awesome stories!!!!!

Joe
1/24/2014 02:31:59 am

Great read. When you were on Chimney Top did you scramble up the rock the summit? I'm planning a trip out early Saturday and wanted to see how tricky the climb to the very top was.

Vickie link
1/24/2014 04:02:49 am

I love reading you blog daily. In a world of gloom and doom it is so wonderful to read the breathing articles. You make us feel as if we are hiking with you. So thank you for making each day brighter.

Lisa
1/24/2014 04:28:41 am

Love your adventures! So glad you are getting some snow to play in this year :)

Kent
1/24/2014 04:46:51 am

This would be the perfect time of year to hike to the Chimney Tops -- no crowds.

JP, why didn't you take the Road Prong Trail up to the AT and trek on up to Clingman's Dome while you were at it? ; )

Mary F
1/24/2014 04:58:03 am

Road Prong, yuck, lol! What a fantastic day you had. Thanks for the weather report and the amazing pictures!

smkymtnhiker
1/24/2014 05:40:33 am

I think he flew over to Nepal and summitted Everest in a day as well. ;)

jean d
1/24/2014 06:11:56 am

My goodness JP, you must be in some kind of great physical shape to do all that in one day!

What memories your stories bring back.

The first hike my dad took me and my sister on, back in the days when there weren't so many hikers, was to Chimney Tops. I especially remember 3 things about that hike. First that even though its only a little over a mile or so to the top its pretty steep and takes a while --second it was wet and my brand new white tennis shoes were black at the end of the day and third the view from the top was the best I'd ever seen to that point in my life.

As others have said, I look toward the mountains every day, remember your experiences and pictures and wonder what is happening there "today". Love reading about it.

How wonderful to have a job like that where you get to play all the time and in such a magical place.

doug y link
1/24/2014 07:57:09 am

Coincidentally, the Chimney Tops trail was also the first one I ever hiked in the Smokies, at the ripe age of 7 ! I was with my family back in 1957 on our way to Myrtle Beach, travelling across the Park as I believe I40 didn't exist back then, or else it was the way my father had decided to go. We had stopped at the trailhead for a rest and I took the opportunity to take a very brief hike along the trail, but I never got close to its end. That came some time later. Yes, it's steep, but worth it. In subsequent years I've begun there and continued on over into the next valley, going down to Elkmont or up to Clingman's Dome, or various other destinations. Yes, it's the journey that's the destination isn't it !? G'day

Curtis
1/24/2014 10:35:46 am

Thanks for sharing your daily experiences in such beautifully written prose. That day down the Mtn, then up the Chimneys and back up LeConte is an impressive one day trek. It's been over 30 years since I stayed overnight in the winter in the snow. Made about 5 or 6 different winter overnights to LeConte, Back in the 1970-80's you could stay in a cabin but had to have your sleeping bag, you got a few logs for firewood ( before kerosene or propane) And yo had to bring and cook your own meals. But it was great to be there on cold snowy days. Wish I could do that again.

Barbara
1/24/2014 03:40:23 pm

Curtis - I never knew that about Leconte. What an adventure that must have been. I've only ever winter hiked in Alaska with a tent but would have loved going up to Leconte with a cabin waiting. Do you remember what it cost or did you register like for the camping areas? Just curious. Thanks.

Curtis
1/27/2014 02:13:54 am

Barbara, We paid the Lodge for the overnight stays, can't remember how much it was. The only heat was from wood in the cabin, but you would get hot on one side and freezing on the backside, so you occasionally turned around to warm your backside. Once you got into your sleeping bag and the fast burning spruce/fir logs burned out, it got very cold fast.
One trip up Alum Cave across the rock slide areas with cables was frozen over and we didn't have crampons- shudder to think about that now, but I was young and thought i could handle anything. LOL
On another trip with a small group on Boulevard Trail, one of our group did slip on ice and slid about 40 feet down a slope without any injury. On that trip we did have crampons so go figure. This past Nov with 3 other overnight hikers coming down the Trillium Gap trail in 15 degree weather, I slipped on ice, but no injury. Now I would love to be able to go up again in the snow , but don't think I would want to stay in the open air trail shelter.

Debi
1/24/2014 12:14:56 pm

What a hike! You must've been moving! Picture of the trees are just beautiful. :) I have hiked Chimney tops in March. I just remember those rocks that kind of looked like steps and the water was gushing down. Thank god someone was coming down, because I said That's the trail? I started to go to the tip top, but decided my view was just fine from half way up. It was a fun trip.


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